How a Keiki is Formed

Orchid Flowers

There is no way to know for sure if or where your orchid plant will produce a keiki. It happens when there is a build up of growth hormones at the node. The nodes are the small bumps along the spikes. In order to encourage a keiki to grow you can apply keiki paste or liquid to the nodes. These products typically have synthetic cytokinins that encourage cell division and growth of new tissue, and some contain synthetic auxins to stimulate growth. The downside to these products is that they are expensive and there is no guarantee that they will work every time. If you have a specific specimen that you definitely want to replicate, it may be worth the investment. Otherwise, you may be better off just waiting for the keikis to form naturally.  Many varieties of Phalaenopsis are particularly skilled at producing keikis.

Removing a Keiki

Once a keiki has begun to form on your plant, you will now play the waiting game. Patience is essential. If you remove your keiki too early, it will not have the healthy start it needs to survive the transplant and establish itself as an individual plant. Before you remove the keiki, it should have several roots, that are at least two inches long. It should also have a few small leaves. Be sure both leaves and roots are present before you cut the spike.  Once your keiki is developed to the appropriate size you can cut it away from the cane. Be sure to sterilize your cutting tool to avoid transferring any disease to the mother plant or the keiki.  Once your tools are sterilized, cut away the cane two inches above the keiki. Then, cut the keiki away from the cane two inches below the keiki, making sure to steer clear of the tender, new roots. As a precaution, you may want to apply fungicide to the cut areas on both the mother plant and the keiki. Cinnamon works as an effective natural fungicide.

Potting Your Keiki

Now you are ready to pot your keiki. You will want to use a pot that will be large enough to allow for one year of growth. A four inch pot should be as big as you need.  Sphagnum moss is one option for a potting medium for orchid keikis. Other options include a special commercial potting mix specifically for orchids, bark, cork, and peat moss. If you are using moss, be sure the moss is damp ahead of time. Then pack some moss into the bottom of the pot. Next, measure to make sure that the bottom of the first few leaves of the keiki will align with the top of the pot. Once you have the right amount of moss in the bottom, wrap a ball of of moss around the keiki just a little larger than the size of the pot. Then pack the moss into the pot tightly so that the keiki is well supported and will not tip. It is also important to remember to label you newly potted keiki. Be sure to include the genus and species, and the date it was planted. This will help you keep track of all of your keikis and their progress. If you choose to give it away, this will also help the recipients know how to properly care for their new orchid.

Different Types of Containers

There are several advantages and disadvantages to different kinds of containers. Clay pots allow the growing media to dry quickly, preventing root rot. They also provide stability to the more top heavy orchids. Clear, plastic pots allow you to view the contents of the pot. This way you can monitor the moisture level in the pot, as well as the health of the roots. It is also believed that the roots can perform photosynthesis through the clear pots, improving the overall health of the orchid.  No matter what pot or potting materials you choose, be sure that it allows for good drainage, and keep a close eye on moisture levels. If the pot you originally chose doesn’t seem to be working out, simply repot your new orchid in an alternative.

Fertilizing

Now that your keiki has a new home, you should wait to fertilize it until it is well established in its pot. If you add fertilizer too soon, it could shock the keiki after an already traumatic move. Once the leaves show a little growth, you will know the keiki is happy and established in its new home. Then you can add fertilizer specially formulated for orchids. Always be sure to read labels and follow instructions on fertilizer carefully.

Light

Tiger Orchid

You must also be careful not to expose your keiki to too much direct light. To much direct sunlight can prevent you from having a successful transplant.  Once the keiki is in its pot, gradually expose it to bright light, but not direct sunlight. As the keiki begins to show growth increase the amount of light a few days at a time until it is growing happily and a receiving the same amount of light as its mother plant.

Growth

In its own pot, your keiki will probably take about two years to grow to a mature flowering size. Attached to the mother plant this will happen faster. If you leave the keiki attached to the mother plant, be sure to feed the mother plant regularly with fertilizer, as it is providing nutrients for both itself and the keiki.

Tips to Remember

With patience and care you can have a copy of your favorite Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, or Epidendrum. Just keep a few, very important things in mind:

• Allow the Keiki to grow at least two, 2 or 3 three inch roots and a few leaves before removing from the mother plant. It must have both!
• Sterilize your cutting tools and apply fungicide to keep mother and keiki free from disease.
• Pot the Keiki in a small pot that will allow for one year of growth.
• Use a pot and potting media that will allow appropriate drainage.
• Fertilize only slowly at first, until the keiki shows signs of being well established.
• Alway monitor moisture carefully. Don’t let the orchid get too soggy or too dry.

Sources

American Orchid Society, http://www.aos.org/Default.aspx?id=97

Orchid Board, www.orchidboard.com

Keiki, Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keiki

Wardian Cases

The Wardian Case was invented by Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward in 1829. Ward was an avid hobby botanist and plant collector. His plants, however, had a difficult time growing in the polluted London air. He then noticed ferns sprouting in an enclosed glass case.  He experimented with planting ferns in a glass cases and discovered that they grew well with minimal care. He then tested transporting the plants in cases on ships, which had less than ideal conditions and found that the plants survived the trips. Wardian Cases were then used to transport new specimens and agriculturally important plants all over the world.  They were also used as fashionable decorations in sitting rooms in Europe and the United States.

Wardian Cases can still be used today to grow plants. They come in all shapes and sizes. They can be highly designed, purchased from specialty store, or they can be as simple and homemade as a soda bottle. If you want to grow an orchid in a Wardian Case, simply chose an orchid that will fit the size constraints of the case. Keep the case moist and out of direct sunlight, as they can become overheated easily. As all Wardian Cases are different, it will take some time and experimentation to determine how to maintain the correct environment in your Wardian Case.

Terrariums

The more modern and sophisticated version of the Wardian Case is a terrarium. Terrariums are similar to aquariums. They are enclosed glass or plastic tanks used to grow plants instead of fish.  There are many different sizes and ways to grow plants in a terrarium. The first step to starting your own is to determine either the size of terrarium you want to have and then find appropriately sized plants. Or, determine how large your plants will grow and find a terrarium that will accommodate them.

Choosing the Right Orchids

Paphiopedilum; miniature Phalaenopsis; Masdevallia and other Pleurothallids; jewel orchids; and miniature Angraecum species and hybrids are all orchids that would do well in a terrarium. They are appropriately sized and handle humidity well.  If there are other orchids you are interested in growing, be sure to discuss how big they will grow with your supplier. You also want to make sure they can handle moderate temperatures, and low to mid levels of light.  It is also likely that you will want to find filler plants to accompany your orchids in the terrarium. Small ferns, ivy and fibrous-rooted begonias are a few examples of plants that are correctly sized and enjoy humidity.

Cleaning

Before you place the plants in the terrarium you must wash the tank thoroughly. In an enclosed environment it is easy for disease to spread quickly, or for left over salt residues to destroy your plants. If it is a new terrarium wash it with soap and water, rinse it well and allow it to dry. If it is a used terrarium, you will want to wash it several times, allowing it to dry completely between each wash. You can also rinse it with a very diluted bleach solution and then wash it again, this will remove any harmful bacteria and prevent your plants from disease or becoming unsightly.

Substrate

Next you must choose your substrate. You can use a layer of egg shell crate on the bottom of the terrarium. This will keep the plants from sitting in water, allow air movement and is easily removed if you want to start a new terrarium. Another option is to place a two inch layer of small stones at the bottom. Be sure to wash the stones carefully first. The last option is to use soil. While soil looks nice, it is very difficult to clean out when needed, and has the potential to introduce disease in the terrarium. No matter what substrate you use, it is wise to keep your orchids in their original pots. You can place the pots in the terrarium, and place sphagnum moss around them to hide the pots.  If you choose to use soil, bury the orchid in its original pot and plant the companion plants directly in the soil. You can also use other props, such as drift wood or cork, to create a scene and hide the pots of the plants. Be aware that anything you add to the terrarium, including drift wood must be thoroughly washed.

Light and Temperature

Once you have selected your plants, but before you have arranged them, it is important to find a perfect spot for the terrarium. It must receive some sunlight, but not direct sunlight.  If it is placed in direct sunlight, the glass amplifies the heat and can be damaging to the plants.  Also, if the window where the terrarium is located is chilly, the glass can easily become too cold. You may want to keep a thermometer in the terrarium for a few days and record the temperature at the warmest and coldest parts of the day. Make sure the plants you buy can handle these temperatures or find plants that can handle greater extremes.  If your space does not have enough light, often, fluorescent bulbs can be placed in the hood the terrarium. Do not use incandescent bulbs, as these will produce too much heat.

Air Flow

To control air flow in the terrarium, you can use a small fan placed in the top or the back. Computer fans work well for this purpose. You can make the necessary modifications to the fan yourself or you can find fans equipped for this purpose in specialty stores. The fan will help keep the air moving and prevent the terrarium from becoming stagnant.

Humidity

If you chose to use rocks in the bottom of your terrarium you can put about and inch of water on the bottom of the terrarium. This will provide appropriate humidity for the terrarium. If you used the egg crates or soil, mist the terrarium thoroughly on a regular basis. Monitor the terrarium regularly especially if you are using a fan to make sure it does not completely dry out.  Be sure to use distilled water to mist and water your terrarium so that there is no risk of contaminating anything with salt residues.

Getting it Right

It will take some experimentation to get the conditions in your terrarium exactly right for the orchids you choose to grow. However, once you get things set up appropriately the terrarium will require little more attention.  The scene you create will be ideal for the orchids to prosper. There are a number of ways you can grow orchids in your home and add to your collection. If you don’t have a greenhouse, a terrarium is a great way to keep your collection growing and thriving, as well as add a green, tranquil scene to your home.

Sources

“Wardian Case” Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wardian_case

“How to Grow Orchids in a Terrarium”  Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/119688-grow-orchids-terrarium.html

“Enclosed Orchids: Growing in Wardian Cases and Terrariums” http://www.usbg.gov/education/events/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&pageid=18171

“Terrariums” http://www.cloudsorchids.com/culture/terrer.htm

Different Types of Orchid Scale

There are twenty-seven varieties of scale and two main types, soft scale and hard scale. Scale range in size from one to five millimeters and, in certain life stages, can be difficult to see without magnification.  Male soft scale appears grayish to white and can look similar to mealy bugs.  Soft scale damages the plant by sucking sap from the plant. It also leaves behind a sticky excretion called honeydew, hard scale does not leave this excretion. A large infestation of males will appear powdery and white. Adult females create larger scales that protect eggs. Soft scale can be found along the underside of leaves, along the stem and even in the roots and rhizomes. Cattelyas are particularly susceptible to a type of brown soft scale called Boisduval scale. Boisduval scale often appears on the undersides of leaves along the midribs and underneath the sheaths. It occurs naturally outdoors in California and Florida, but can appear in greenhouses in any climate. Hard scale is rarer on orchids, but can be identified by its hard brown domes of the adult female.

The Life Cycle

Spider on Orchid

The life cycle of scale is very brief. Scale moves from eggs, to the nymph stage called crawlers, to adults in the matter of a little less than two months, and there may be several generations of scale within a year. These cycles are fastest in an indoor or greenhouse environment. As a result, management, once orchids have been infested, is very difficult. The caretaker must be very persistent in his or her approach and must apply treatment at least every ten days. If you have been using the same treatment for more than a few months and still have scale problems, you must switch treatments as some of the scale may have become immune. The scale is most easily treated during its crawler stage, this is also the stage when it moves between plants. The last stage of the life cycle for a female scale is when it hardens and lays eggs under the protective covering that it is named for. Once the eggs are laid and the shield is hard the scale dies.

Prevention

The easiest way to avoid a scale problem is to stop it before it starts. Scale spreads easiest from plant to plant, and occasionally on air currents. So, it is likely that a scale problem come from a new plant that is introduced to a collection. Be sure to inspect any new plants and even quarantine them for two weeks to see if any evidence of scale appears, because not all stages of scale are visible to the naked eye.  If scale does appear, you can treat this plant separately and avoid introducing scale to the whole collection. If you notice scale on a plant you already have, quarantine it right away, while you are treating it, and a short time after to make sure it doesn’t reappear.  This should hinder the movement between orchids. Movement will also be stopped between orchids if leaves from different plants are not allowed to touch one another.

If you keep your orchids outdoors, you will also have some assistance from natural predators and parasites. Ladybugs like to eat soft bodied insects and will eat scale. Wasps can also lay eggs inside the hardened scale, they will then feed off the scale eggs and emerge as adult wasps, effectively killing the scale in their first stages of development.

Treatment

For a small infestation, you can rub the scale with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab to remove them. This can be hard on the plant, so don’t do it too often or if there a large amount of scale. There is also the possibility of chilling the plant with the fast evaporating alcohol. You may want to wipe away extra alcohol from the leaf so that it doesn’t damage the leaf tissue, especially if the plant is in windy location.  If you can, move the plant away from any air currents. Another option for management suggested by the Canadian Orchid Congress, is to carefully wash the whole plant in warm water with grated soap (be sure the soap is mild and not ammonia-based, as this will cause damage to the plant). The plant must be washed every other day for a month. Then it must remain separate from other plants for two weeks to ensure no new scale appears.

The next level in treatment, if the previous two home remedies do not work, is to use horticultural oil. This oil must be applied thoroughly to the orchid. Scale hides well in the sheaths, along the base of the plant, and both the top and bottom of the leaves. It can be easily missed and infest the plant again. The oil works by smothering the scale, so any surface that is not covered will not be effectively treated. The oil can burn the plant’s leaves if used on a hot day or in direct sunlight. Take care to keep the orchid shaded during treatment. Also, take care to follow the directions on the labels very carefully so that you do not damage the plant.

Orchid and Beetle

Finally, if the horticultural oil does not take care of the problem, you may have to use chemicals. Some insecticides are available for use on orchids. Make sure they are labeled for use on ornamental plants, and seek help from a technician if you are unsure if the chemical combination is safe for your orchids. Always follow the label carefully and do not use a concentration any more or less than suggested, too little may be ineffective and too much will kill the plant. Remember that insecticides can be harmful to people and pets. If you cannot spray the orchid outside because of weather, place the plant in a large plastic bag and then spray it. Once the spray has settled, remove the bag and place the plant in an area away from any air currents.

If your plant has had a large infestation you may have scale in the roots. If this is the case, remove the orchid from its container, and shake all of the old growing media loose. You can wash the roots, or if you are using an insecticide, spray the roots. Then repot the plant in a new, clean container with new growing media.

Care tips to remember

Remember, as you care for your orchids, that scale can be devastating and any measures you take as a precaution against it are worth the extra effort.

• Always quarantine new orchids for two weeks before displaying with your collection.
• Check all of the orchids in your collection regularly for signs scale and remove potential problems immediately.
• Keep plants separated and do not allow leaves of different plants to touch one another.
• Once plants have been treated for scale, keep them separated from your collection for two more weeks to ensure the treatment was successful.

If you are battling a scale infestation, be sure to stick with the treatments, repeating them about every ten days.  With your persistence and care your orchid collection can be kept scale free and beautiful.

Sources

“Diaspis boisduvalii (Signoret)”  Victoria L. Tenbrink, Research Associate, Arnold H. Hara, Entomologist, Beaumont Research Center  Hilo, Hawaii

http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/type/d_boisdu.htm

“Boisduval Scale, Diaspis boisduvalii Signoret (Insecta:Hemiptera: Diaspididae)” Adriana Espinosa, Heidi Bowman, Amanda Hodges and Greg Hodges

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN83800.pdf

“Scale Insects on Orchids” Ingrid Schmidt-Ostrander, Canadian Orchid Congress

http://www.canadianorchidcongress.ca/Ingrid/scale.html

“Scale Insects on Orchids” Paul J. Johnson, Ph.D., South Dakota State University,

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/ScaleInsectsonOrchids.pdf

For about half of the nation the temperatures dip well below 55 degrees fahrenheit (and much colder the more north you go). For orchid enthusiasts that means it’s time to prepare for winter care.

The majority of orchids require temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees. There is no way to keep these particular orchids outside when the cold winds blow own from the north. It doesn’t mean you have to give up on your favorite orchids for the year, though. There are plenty of ways to bring them indoors and maintain and even grow orchids so that by the springtime there is plenty of reason to rejoice.

Here is the rundown of how to care and grow orchids during the winter months in the middle and northern areas of the United States. For the orchid enthusiast, some of these instructions will be familiar, but please add your tips and tricks for caring for orchids in the wintertime.

Orchids Indoors During Winter

There are a few quirks to keeping your orchids indoors during the winter months. You’ll need to find the right places to keep them to provide the proper amount of light while making sure your house or apartment is kept at the proper temperature. Taking care of orchids indoors takes a twist with things like setting your orchid near a window for additional light. However, doing so during the really cold days could mean that the temperature near the window is too cold, thus harming the orchid.

While there are a few intricacies of keeping your orchids indoors during winter it’s very rewarding to have your favorite flowers make it through the cold months and bloom fully come spring and summer. With a few careful considerations it can become easier to care for your orchids.

Light

Proper sunlight is key for orchid health.

Yellow Orchid

In the outdoors, orchids consume 14 hours or more of natural light. This is typically ideal for the high intesity orchids like Cattleya and Epidendrum among others. A good 12 to 14 hours of natural light is ideal, but difficult in most northern parts of the US during the winter months. If you live in an arear where natural light is difficult most days during winter you’ll have to look at artificial growing lights. You can set these up in your home and use them to help the natural light coming through the windows and glass doors in your home.

You can typically find growing lights of good quality for under $100 and even under $50 in the right circumstances. If possible, get lights that will last for many seasons. It’s worth spending a little extra today if you plan on growing your orchids indoors during the winter months for many years. Reliable equipment gives you peace of mind and will have your flowers primed for return to the outdoors during the summer.

Light is usually the biggest concern when bringing your orchids indoors for the winter months. Outside of a true greenhouse, it’s possible for orchids to get plenty of light during winter, but sometimes it requires a little extra effort to get the most out of your orchids.

As mentioned earlier, though, it’s important to consider the impact the heat loss around glass will have on your orchids as well.

Temperature

As mentioned above, when the temperature dips below 55 to 60 degrees, it’s necessary to bring your orchids indoors for the winter. Something often overlooked in the winter care of orchids is the balance of heat needed for orchids with the requirement to keep indoor temperatures pleasant and cost efficient for you and your family.

Most people keep their homes in the mid to upper sixties during winter. This is great for sleeping and preserving money used for energy costs yet it is not ideal for orchids. While the temperature is above 60 degrees, orchids can not be sustained in that temperature. They can handle it for a little while, but any prolonged exposure for a few months during the winter should include temperatures in the 70s. One option might be to set aside a special area in your home for higher temperatures. In modern homes, zoned heating is one option while portable heaters could be another, less expensive way to provide ample heat for your plants.

Windows can be tricky business for winter growing. Windows are needed to provide plenty of light for orchids during the winter months yet these windows can play games with the temperature of the orchid. Too much exposure to the window during cloudy days or at night can lead to damage on the plant when the temperatures get too cold. Be aware of how much the temperature can change near your windows. If it’s too cold during the night it can lead to damage and the converse is true as well. If the sun is beating through the window it can heat up the air surrounding your flower and lead to damage as well.

Keep the temperature around your orchids as even as you can. It’s difficult, but when managed correctly you’ll see healthy and growing flowers as the winter months wear on and the springtime nears.

Water

Watering is a big concern with orchids.

White Orchid

In most cases, improper water care leads to most orchid issues with growers. Watering of orchids can be tricky because of the all the variables involved. It makes sense that even professionals can struggle to find the right watering routines for orchids.

Humidity, air quality, and other factors come into play with orchids and the necessary watering. It’s important to water orchids as their soil just dries out. The air is typically more dry in the winter months even if you control it with a humidifier. This will cause different watering schedules for your indoor orchids. You can spend a little more time learning the drying periods of your plants in the early parts of winter and learn what routine you can comfortable work with for the rest of the winter.

When watering, fill the pot up until water drains from the drainage areas. This will ensure the soil has time to soak up the water and also flush out anything in the soil that might be detrimental to the plant. It’s another case of balancing enough water while not completely drowning the orchid. It takes time and patience to find the right balance for your specific type of orchid.

Watering is important during the winter as it is year round. You’ll have to spend time monitoring the dryness of your orchids and make sure you water just as they dry while providing the right amount of water so they can thrive indoors.

Ventilation

Air quality and movement is an issue with most indoor plants.

Insects, bugs, and other issues arise when the air becomes stale. When you close the windows and doors for the winter to keep the cold out, the air can become stale and lose quality. It’s difficult for humans and difficult for plant life as well.

A fan is a great solution to keep air moving in a home where ventilation and air quality are of concern in the winter months. Even modern homes with their airtight construction need proper ventilation both for humans and plants. If you’re home is closed off in the winter then it’ll be important to consider a fan for your plants.

Make sure to point the fan in the opposite direction of the plants. You can pull the air away from the area around the plant and keep things moving and ventilated in the area where you keep your plants. Be sure to turn any overhead fans to pull air up away from the plant or keep plants away from the direct blowing of a fan that blows hot air back down to the floor.

The circulation of the air in the room and proper ventilation is important for orchid success in the winter. Think about your specific situation and come up with a plan that will work best for your family and your plants.

Beyond Basic Care

Fertilizer is a good option if you want a little extra help with your orchids. Be sure to add the fertilizer when the potted soil is moist. This will allow the fertilizer to take effect. Don’t use too much. A little fertilizer will work just fine on most orchids. Dur winter, fertilizing isn’t more important as some may think. You can actually use it less frequently during the winter months to allow the plants to be more stable and rest rather than focus on growth.

Greenhouses are great and optimal for the winter months if you’re growing orchids. If you have a greenhouse you are likely well prepared to care for orchids during any winter months. Greenhouses can be constructed for relatively inexpensive funds and effort, but to construct one that will last for many winters it can take more resources. If you’re serious about growing orchids in the northern areas of the country it could be part of your long-term goals to construct a proper greenhouse. Remember to research the proper orientation to allow for the best sunlight. There will have to be another advanced article on growing orchids in greenhouses.

Summary

Taking care of orchids in the winter is crucial for their health.

Growing orchids is fun and fulfilling. Don’t let the winter blues set in. It can be fun and easy to bring your flowers indoors for the winter months and have them healthy and ready to go back outdoors when the temps warm up.

Focus on the basics of indoor and winter care and you’ll be set to go:

• Light
• Temperature
• Water
• Ventilation

Do you have any additional tips for fostering orchids indoors during winter?

Please share your thoughts with the orchid community.

Dendrobium Lloyd Stainton Orchid

I define “needs care” orchids as those that, in temperate climates, are most suited to growing in a greenhouse or conservatory, where better conditions can be created to suit their needs.

Two of the hard-caned Dendrobium species – D. superbbiens and D. canaliculatum from Australia – make up this worthwhile 1986 hybrid with its striking combination of white, red-lipped flowers. It is a tall-growing plant, leafed along the upper parts of its club-shaped pseudobulbs. The flower spikes arise from the top portion of the newly completed canes in later summer. The plant needs specialist care to address its fast, summer growing season, which is followed by a long resting period. All-year-round light is essential, with full sun in the winter. Warm conditions suit it best!

Flower Size: 2 3/4 inches (7cm) across

Flower Spike: 10 inches (25cm)

Plant Height: 1 foot (30cm)

Pot Size: 4 inches (10cm) long

An attractive hybrid which burst onto the tropical cut-flower scene in 1982, this plant found favor both for floral decoration and the pot-plant trade. The combination of pink and white gives its blooms a fairy-tale appearance, with the added elegance of the East. The six to eight flowers that are born in the fall on each spike will last for around four weeks. This plant and numerous others have all been derived from a very few species, the most dominant of which is D. phalaenopsis from Australia. It was first discovered on one of Captain Cook’s expeditions and became known as the Cooktown orchid. Good all-year-round light is important for successful flowering and production of the season’s growth, which is completed in a comparatively short time. The plant also needs a dry rest during the shortest days.

Flower Size: 2 3/4 inches (7cm) across

Flower Spike: 10 inches (25cm)

Plant Height: 1 foot (30cm)

Pot Size: 4 inches (10cm) long

Raised in Thailand in 1993, this robust and vigorous hybrid combines the best qualities that are sought in this type of orchid. Like most vandas, the plants will bloom at various times of the year, with six blooms to a spike and the flowers lasting for up to six weeks. When gown well, two flowering can be expected in a year. The plants should be housed in slatted wooden baskets, where their extensive aerial roots can spread freely. This makes them unsuitable as houseplants, even in a warm room – they do best in tropical countries, where they are extremely easy. In temperate climates with colder winters these orchids are challenging to grow, although it can be done with care in a warm, humid greenhouse.

Flower Size: 4 inches (10cm) across

Flower Spike: 10 inches (25cm)

Plant Height: 2 feet (60cm)

Basket Size: 4 inches (10cm) long

This vibrantly colored hybrid comes from a long line of vandas bred from species native to India. These include the sky-blue V. coerulea and the cream, beige, and green V. sanderiana (syn. Euanthe sanderiana), both of which are rare in cultivation today. Their place has been taken in collections by the larger-flowered hybrids, which come in a wide range of exciting colors. The flowers are well rounded, with overlapping petals and sepals, and veined over their surface. The plants are fan-shaped, lack pseudobulbs, and produce their flower spikes from the leaf axils mainly during the winter. This hybrid was raised in 1984 in Florida, where vandas grow best – they are easy to grow in all tropical areas. In temperate climates they are challenging and need extra care, but will reward you with flowers that last four to five weeks: all-year-round light, high temperatures, and humidity are essential for growth and flowering. In Southeast Asia these orchids are grown in their teams of thousands for the cut-flower trade.

Flower Size: 3 1/2 inches (9cm) across

Flower Spike: 9 inches (23cm)

Plant Height: 2 feet (60cm)

Basket Size: 4 inches (10cm) long

This is a warm-growing, hard-caned Dendrobium that, when given sufficient light, will produce sprays of pretty flowers from the top of the elongated pseudobulb throughout the sprint. The blooms will last for a good four weeks. Various colors from white and pale pink, through mauve to dark purple have all been derived from species native to Australia. This exceptional hybrid from 1992 borders on the elusive blue. Extremely popular it is grown worldwide for the pot-plant and cut-flower trade. However, an amateur can re-flower these orchids with the right conditions in a greenhouse: provide good light all year round and maximum temperatures in the warm range where possible. Keep the plants moist while they are growing, but allow them to dry out in the winter.

Flower Size: 2 inches (5cm) across

Flower Spike: 10-15 inches (25-38cm)

Plant Height: 8 inches (20cm)

Pot Size: 5 inches (12cm) long