Orchid Plant Family Classification Overview by OrchidPlantCare.info

About 140 species of orchid are native to North America, usually as bog plants or flowers of moist woodlands and meadows. The orchid family is classified in the division Magnoliophyta, class Liliopsida, order Orchidales. The family of monocotyledonous plants has evolved from prototypes of the lily and amaryllis family and is noteworthy for the wide variety of its highly specialized and curiously modified forms. Epiphytic types have a stem swollen at the base to form a pseudobulb (for food storage) and pendulous aerial roots adapted for water absorption and sometimes containing chlorophyll to make photosynthesis possible. In terrestrial types a symbiotic relationship often exists between the roots and filamentous fungi (mycorrhiza). Horticulturists have found that the presence of certain fungi is necessary for the germination of the minute seeds. Orchid pollen occurs as mealy or waxen lumps of tiny pollen grains, highly varied in form.

The flowers characteristically consist of three petals and three petallike sepals, the central sepal modified into a conspicuous lip (labellum) specialized to secrete nectar that attracts insects. Most of the diverse forms of orchid flowers are apparently complicated adaptations for pollination by specific insects, e.g., the enormous waxflower of Africa, which has a labellum over a foot long and is pollinated by a moth with a tongue of equal length. The saclike labellum of the lady’s-slipper serves the same function by forcing the insect to brush against the anther and the stigma (male and female organs) while procuring nectar.

Orchid Species

The expensive orchid of the florists’ trade is usually the large cattleya; species of this genus (Cattleya) are epiphytic plants native to tropical America. Among the other cultivated orchids are several of the terrestrial rein orchids (genus Habenaria) and many epiphytic tropical genera, e.g., the Asian Dendrobium, with pendant clusters of flowers; Epidendrum, represented in the SE United States by the greenfly orchid; and Odontoglossum, indigenous to the Andes Mountains.

Species of lady’s-slipper, or moccasin flower (Cypripedium) [Lat.,=slipper of Venus], include the pink-blossomed common, or stemless, lady’s-slipper (C. acaule) and the showy lady’s-slipper (C. reginae), both of the Northeast, and varieties of the yellow lady’s-slipper (C. calceolus), which grow in all but the warmest regions of the continent. Other terrestrial genera that grow as American wildflowers are the fringe orchids (Blephariglottis); the small-blossomed twayblades (species of Liparis and Listera); the pogonias, or beard-flowers (Pogonia); the wild pinks, or swamp rose orchids (Arethusa), of northeastern sphagnum bogs; the grass pinks (Limodorum) of eastern bogs and meadows; and the ladies’-tresses, or pearl-twists (Spiranthes), with a distinctive spiral arrangement of yellowish or white flowers. The coral-roots (Corallorhiza), named for the corallike branching of their underground rhizomes, are a nongreen saprophytic genus which includes some North American species. Because orchids are characteristically slow growing and difficult to seed, excessive picking and futile attempts to transplant have depleted native species in some areas.

Commonly Cultivated Orchid Plants

Many orchid plant species have become tremendously popular over the years for two main reasons: Their beautiful showy blooms and the ease of care required.

• Cattleyas
• Phalaenopsis
• Paphiopedilums
• Cymbidiums
• Dendrobiums
• Oncidiums
• Vandas

Orchid Plant Classification Information

Growing Orchid Plants Indoors Overview by Orchidplantcare.info

Orchid plants have become increasingly popular and are now common in many garden stores and nurseries. If you want the plant to continue growing after bloom, and bloom again in future years, choosing the right one is key. Another important orchid growing factor is the culture, which is a bit different from most other indoor plants.

To begin with, orchids vary in their temperature requirements. Choose those that fit your home environment in winter, warm-growing ones if it is consistently warm (68-75 degrees) or intermediate-growing if night temperatures are lower (60-65 degrees). It is very important for orchids of all types is high humidity and high light during winter, indirect light during summer.

If you buy an orchid, you may notice it is not growing in soil but rather in bark, a black fiber (roots from the osmunda fern), or similar material. This is because most orchids are “epiphytic,” getting most their water and nutrients from the air through aerial roots. These are often the white thick roots you see growing from the plant on the surface or even outside the pot, which should NEVER be cut off. Exceptions to the epiphytes are the few that grow in soil (terrestrial) or on rocks (lithophytic).

Many epiphytes have upright swollen stems called “pseudobulbs” which rise from a rooted horizontal stem. They serve to store food and water. Examples of these are popular genera such as Cattleya, Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Laelia, and Oncidium. New pseudobulbs are formed along the horizontal stem, meaning growing is in a horizontal direction. Such orchids are often called “sympodial”. If these are planted in osmunda, you may need to water every 3 or 4 days. Water more often if they are planted in bark.

Other epiphytes, such as Vanda and Phalaenopsis, don’t have pseudobulbs. Their growth is upright along a single stem. Aerial roots come from the stem, often from between the leaves. These orchids are often called “monopodial”. Since they don’t have storage structures either above or below ground, they often need water daily.

When checking for water, never let the orchids dry out completely. Water well until water is running out the bottom of the pot. But don’t let plants stand in water, as in a saucer. I find it easier to water pots holding them over a sink or bucket.

Epiphytic orchids are quite sensitive to air pollution, water quality, and too much fertilizer. If too little fertilizer, pseudobulbs may shrivel and leaves turn light green or yellow. If leaves are dark green and floppy, and there are no flowers, this indicates too much fertilizer. Blackened root tips indicates damage from too much fertilizer.

Softened water should not be used, as the salts will damage roots. Most chlorinated city water sources can be used, although excess chlorine can also damage roots. The best water to use is distilled water, pure spring water as you often find in stores, or even collected rain water.

Fertilizer varies mostly with type of growing medium, type of and amount of growth. Plants actively growing, sending out new shoots, will need fertilizer. If inactive or dormant, as in the rest period with some orchids, don’t fertilize.

Plants growing in osmunda need less fertilizer than those growing in bark. Sympodial orchids, having the pseudobulb storage organs, need less fertilizer than monopodial ones. Although most houseplant fertilizers will work, you may wish to get one specially formulated for orchids. Follow label directions for the rate. A general houseplant fertilizer, applied to plants in bloom or active growth, might be every two weeks for sympodial orchids in bark, every 4 weeks if in osmunda, and twice as often for monopodial orchids.

Growing Orchids Indoors

Growing Orchid Plants Outdoors Information Overview

Properly selected and cared for, orchid plants can be among the showiest and most exotic of all garden or patio plants. There are many areas throughout the southern and central United States where temperatures for a good portion of the year are compatible with the needs of many orchids. Some coastal areas are nearly frost-free year round and make perfect climates for growing orchid outdoors. In these areas, with some protection from excessive sun, wind and rain, lovely orchid plants can be successfully cultivated and cared for on the patio or as a part of the landscape. In frost-free areas, the plants can be left in place all year. Where frost or temperatures below 40º threaten, plants can be brought into the home to be grown on windowsills, under lights or on an unheated patio where the coldest temperatures are avoided. The trick is in selecting orchid plants that are already adapted to your particular area. It is also a good idea to consider some basic care and culture needs of the orchid plants.

Growing Orchids Outdoors

• Light and Shade - No flowering plant will do well in deeper shade, and orchids are no exception. Orchids generally come from environments where dappled light is the norm. The hotter the sun, the more midday shade is required. In humid or coastal areas, more sun can be given. The required amount of light will also dictate your selection of plants. If you can offer only one light situation, select only plants that can do well under those conditions.
• Temperature - In most cases, you will be limited to whatever Mother Nature provides, eased only by the amount of shade you supply. Generally, there are many lovely orchids that will do well in the temperature range from 40º to 90º. Your particular temperature conditions will influence your choice of orchid plants.
• Watering - This will depend greatly on your orchid plant selection, and whether the plants are grown under cover. In general, orchids require at least some air circulation around their roots yet are intolerant of excessive moisture at the roots.
• Humidity - Most areas with satisfactory temperatures will have adequate humidity. Anywhere from 40 percent and up will do. Only in the deserts will it be unsatisfactory. In such areas, grouping orchids with other plants can create a microclimate that will suit them.
• Fertilizing - Fertilize regularly, at a low dosage of approximately one-quarter to one-half strength, with a fertilizer appropriate to the potting mix in which the orchid plants are grown. One highly recommended fertilizer is Green Jungle Orchid Food, especially formulated to work with rain, distilled, reverse osmosis water or water low in alkalinity. Fertilize with Green Jungle every time you water, all year round.

Popular Outdoor Orchid Plants

• Cattleya Alliance Hybrids - Especially good are hybrids with Laelia anceps in their ancestry; half sun, temperature-tolerant.
• Cymbidiums - Only in areas with coot summer nights, not for the Gulf states; nearly full sun.
• Dendrobiums - Among the many choices, Indian and Australian types best; half sun, temperature-tolerant.
• Encyclia Species and Hybrids - Half sun, very temperature-tolerant.
• Epidendrums - Especially the brilliant reed-stem types; need almost full sun, temperature-tolerant.
• Oncidiums - Mexican species, or higher-elevation types; bright shade to half sun.

Growing Orchids Outdoors

Orchid Plant and Flower Care and Culture Overview Information

Information about the care and culture of orchid plants and flowers including ideal light, temperature, humidity, water, soil and planting beds, potting media and fertilization.

The following tips are not orchid plant specific, but more general. As it has been pointed out, there is constantly new research being developed as to what is best for your orchids. You must choose orchid plants for your geographical area and study what they need and want in order to creat an environment they can flourish in.

Orchids Light

Light is one of the key factors to successfully growing and blooming orchids. Leaves are burned if the plants receive too much light. Not having enough light or light at the wrong time will most likely keep the plants from flowering. Follow these tips to make sure your orchid plants are getting the correct amounts of light that they need to grow and to produce those flourishing blooms.

• To make sure your plants grow evenly, regularly turn them. If your plants are in bud, don’t turn them. The flowers may twist all different directions to face the sun.
• Plants that are not receiving enough light, gradually move them into stronger light. Only increase light intensity by 100 to 200 foot candles at a time if you are using a light meter.
• If your plants are in bloom, move them away from full sun. Very bright sunlight can make the blooms fade and discolor.
• Know your plants. Some orchid plants will not flower without uninterrupted darkness at night.

Orchids Temperature

No matter where you grow your orchid plants and flowers, temperatures can vary considerably. As stated before, many different orchids require different environments, depending on several factors and their specific tastes in order to bring out the plants full blooming potential.

• Orchids that have lower temperature needs, place them near the floor, and on shelves above them, you can place the orchids that require higher temperatures. Those plants that are at the highest will most likely receive the highest temperatures.
• Use curtains to mimic climates of warmer during day hours and cooler during night hours.
• Don’t ever let your plants touch the windows in cold weather or hot weather. It will damage your leaves.
• Use fans to circulate warm and cool air and to circulate air around your plants. Don’t let cold or hot drafts blow on your plants.

Orchids Humidity

Orchid plants like to have the moisture in the air around them maintained. Create evaporation trays so your orchids can set on top of them.

• The pebbles or rocks that you use should be washed every 2-4 months in a weak bleach solution to remove any salts and algae that might have collected. Do not add the bleach to the water in your trays when they are in use.
• Use a suction tube to remove any excess water out of the trays after you have watered your plants.
• Mist your plants. They love it. It mimics the steamy air in there natural habitat. Only mist your plants if they have time to dry off before nightfall.
• Make sure your plants are evenly spaced apart so their air circulation is not restricted.

Watering Orchids

Good or bad watering habits can make or break your orchid plant. Be sure to study your specifc orchid’s needs when it comes to watering and feeding.

• Water your plants in the morning, so excess water will not evaporate right away.
• Orchid plants in small pots or clay pots are going to need to be watered more often than those plants that are in plastic pots or larger pots.
• Pseudo bulbs can be a real indicator whether a plant needs water or not. If the pseudo bulbs are shriveled you plant needs water. If they are nice and plump, then most likely your plant is receiving the right amount of water.
• Plants just recently repotted need to be watered more often than those that have been in their potting medium for a while. The air space in older potting medium shrinks, thus making it retain more water. At watering time, separate the plants in aged potting mediums from those that have been recently repotted.

Fertilizing Orchids

Fertilizing your orchid plants must be done with care. Study the specifc needs of your orchid plant before trying deifferent fertilizers.

• Over-fertilizing your orchid plants can cause the tips of the leaves to become dry and blackened. If this happens, cut off the burned tips with sterilized scissors and flush water through the potting medium to rid it of the fertilizer. If the symptoms are severe, you may need to repot the plant regardless the time of year.
• Only when your plant is in “active” growth should you fertilize your plant.
• Never guess at your fertilizer amount, always use a measuring device to use the proper amount.
• If your plants have damaged roots or is suffering from lack of water, don’t fertilize them. Water them with regular water until they have recovered.
• Fertilizers contain salts that can damage your plants. Water your plants immediately before you fertilize them. This prevents damage. Don’t try to force fertilizer to your plants. Over-fertilization actually stunts their growth.

Specific Orchids Care and Culture Information

Caring for, and culturing orchid plants is a fascinating pursuit, whether you are interested on a commercial level or simply as a hobby. There are, of course, thousands of different orchid plants, many of which have specific needs particular th their species. Below we have listed many of the most popular orchid plant species and specific growing techniques suitable for each type.

• Cattleyas
• Cymbidiums
• Dendrobium Phalaenopsis
• Nobile Dendrobiums
• Equitant Oncidiums
• Masdevallias
• Miltoniopsis (Miltonias)
• Oncidiums
• Paphiopedilums
• Phalaenopsis
• Phragmipediums
• Vandas

Orchids Care and Culture Information

Orchid Plant and Flower Propagation Information Overview

There are many ways in which orchids are propagated today, commercial nurseries will use mass production methods to reproduce a choice variety of either a specie or hybrid plant, the favoured one goes by the name of meristem culture, this laboratory technique involves the mass tissue culture of the growing meristem tip from within the new growth of the plant concerned, the nucleus of cells derived from this small sample of tissue or grown on in flasks on nutrient gels. The result of this is the successful production of any number of plants, all identical to the original more or less, and that is how excellent plants become available to us all at remarkably low prices.

However in nature initial fertilization of the orchid flower must take place for the seed pod to develop, and if a new hybrid or selective breeding is used to satisfy our demand for a new or improved variety then its back to nature for the hobbyist and commercial grower alike, so this article will focus on the principle of natural fertilization and propagation.

An insect when pollinating a flower usually does so by collecting the pollen sacks from one plant (a forced occupation as the pollen plant by various clever means deliberately sticks the pollen sacks to the insect as it leaves) and depositing them on the stigmatic surface of its next orchid flower as it strives to collect its reward of a little nectar.

Man can do the same thing, usually with the aid of a toothpick and the two pollen sacks seen on the left are about to be deposited onto the stigmatic surface of the pod parent plant where they will adhere, and the minute pollen grains will embed themselves into the sticky bed and nature will begin to take its course.

In a few days, providing the seed was viable, the flower will shrivel and the column will swell to enclose the pollen saturated area, the stem of the flower will begin to swell and a seed pod will develop

This seed pod may remain on the plant for several months until it is ripe, it is important that the pod is harvested before it splits as the seed may be lost or spoiled.

Not all seed pods will have viable seed, and in order to ensure that no more time is wasted on them a sample of seed will be examined, they are so minute that a microscope is needed to see them properly even after they have been soaked for a few hours in a sugar water solution, which makes them easier to study. On the right, you can see how primitive an orchid seed really is, it consist of a single cell, which is contained within an open a fibrous network, and at this stage is extremely underdeveloped.

In nature, the orchid seed will only grow when exposed to a microscopic fungus, which helps to break down the sugars and nutrients for the seed: the seed cannot survive without this symbiosis taking place, but as it is a hit and miss affair in propagation in the hands of man an alternative and more viable method has been evolved.

Firstly, as the orchid seed which has been contained in a sterile atmosphere within its seed pod may be contaminated by the wrong airborne fungal spores, and as it is about to be introduced to another sterile container ( a flask) it must be thoroughly sterilized to avoid being contaminated within its new environment.

A nutrient gel is prepared and sterilized also, this will eliminate the need of the primitive seeds dependence on symbiosis. The gel is allowed to set inside the flask, and the sterilized orchid seed is sown thinly across its surface. Hopefully the seed sowing will have been successful and in a little time will germinate, and the surface of the gel will become covered with a mass of round green spheres, these are called protocorms.

These miniature orchids will be sown again into new flasks which may contain a stronger medium, and again this is done in sterile conditions, eventually from the thousands of protocorms originally sown only around 25/30 will be sown into the final flask.

The task of replating (reflasking) may be done again and again as the plantlets mature and grow, and eventually they will become large enough to be pricked out and sown in regular orchid compost to continue and grow into flowering plants.

From seed to mature plant can take from three years upwards.

Orchids may be propagated by division, those whose growths are Sympodial, (that is one new growth appearing from the base of an older growth) lend themselves easily to such an exercise, taking a sterile blade, cut through the rhizome leaving ideally at least three growths on each portion, this can be done at any time, providing the plant remains undisturbed in its original compost until the next re-potting takes place, when you should have perfect divisions.

On Monopodial orchids (those whose new growth comes from the centre of the plant, the exercise is a little more complicated, and should not be undertaken lightly. Vandaceous orchids are of this type, and when a plant has reached a size too big for you to cope with, it may be cut down, providing that there are sufficient aerial roots on the cutting to make it viable, which can then be re basketed to grow on, the old stump should not be thrown away, as it may well produce several new growths from below the cut, and these may be eventually removed to form new plants or left as a splendid clump.

Phalaenopsis orchids if damaged may produce several new growths from beneath the ruined crown, or a little keiki paste may be added to the nodes of a flowering spike to encourage the growth of plantlets, sometimes this happens without encouragement, and when the plantlets have enough root they may be teased from the parent and potted up.

Orchids Propagation Information

Orchid Plant and Flower Blooming Information Overview

The key to getting an orchid plant to bloom all year long lies in choosing an orchid that’s best suited to the conditions in your home. Below is some basic background on different types of orchids and the factors that influence their bloom and growth.

Growing Epiphytic & Terrestrial Orchids

There are two basic categories of orchids. Those that grow in trees are called epiphytic orchids. Those that grow on the ground or close to it are called terrestrial orchids. One very popular orchid is the Phaleanopsis. These orchids are typically potted with their roots in a course, quick-draining medium to mimic the conditions in which it would thrive when growing on tree bark. The quick-draining character of the soil helps replicate the conditions of the short but heavy rains that occur in tropical forests. Terrestrial orchids like the slipper orchid, on the other hand, are potted in a medium similar to ordinary potting soil.

Orchid Growing Temperatures

Another factor to consider when blooming orchid plants is the room temperature.As stated above, one key to successful bloom and growth of orchids is selection of species that are well suited to the temperature range in your home or office.

• Calia orchids are a popular variety that thrive best in warm temperatures. Consider selecting this warm-growing orchid if you plan to be placing it in a warm room.
• Phaleanopsis orchids are an intermediate-growing orchid, and will do well in rooms that stay in the 70-degree range, and that have a slight temperature drop at night.
• The jewel orchid is a cool-growing orchid that does best in an area that stays 70 degrees or below, and one without bright, direct sunlight.

Growing orchid plants is a fascinating pursuit, whether you are interested on a commercial level or simply as a hobby. There are, of course, thousands of different orchid plants, many of which have specific needs particular th their species. Below we have listed many of the most popular orchid plant species and specific growing techniques suitable for each type.

• Cattleyas
• Cymbidiums
• Dendrobium Phalaenopsis
• Nobile Dendrobiums
• Equitant Oncidiums
• Masdevallias
• Miltoniopsis (Miltonias)
• Oncidiums
• Paphiopedilums
• Phalaenopsis
• Phragmipediums
• Vandas

Other Useful Orchid Blooming Tips & Techniques

Repotting Orchids

There are several different ways to repot an orchid plant, and different orchid varieties can require different repotting techniques and potting materials.

• If you purchase an epiphytic orchid like a Phaleanopsis, chances are good that the plant has been growing in the same pot for some time. The medium may have begun to decompose and lose its quick-draining characteristics. As soon as you get the orchid home, it’s a good idea to repot it, replace the old medium with new, and condition the roots.
• Carefully lift the orchid out of its pot. Most of the growing medium should simply fall away from the roots. You may need to gently shake any remaining medium free.
• With most of the old medium removed, carefully examine the roots. Use scissors to clip away any dead roots. Leave the white, healthy roots intact. If any of those have unhealthy or dead tips, trim away the unhealthy portion. The trimmed roots should regenerate healthy tips.
• Orchid pots come in a variety of styles, but most are designed with multiple holes in the sides to allow rapid soil drainage. We opted to pot ours in a clear glass pot that allows the root system to remain partially visible.
• The ideal medium for these epiphytic orchids contains large pieces of bark and charcoal to accommodate good drainage. Orchid-potting medium is available at nurseries and most home centers. (If you’re potting a terrestrial species, be sure to use a potting medium formulated for terrestrial orchids).
• Place a layer of the medium in the bottom of the container. Then carefully hold the orchid in the pot as you add more medium around the roots. Add the medium uniformly around the roots so that the orchid stands up straight in the pot.
• If the roots of your orchid begin to grow and cascade over the edge of the pot, it’s not necessarily a sign that the plant needs to be repotted. The roots of epiphytic species, in particular, may tend to grow along the surface of the medium — as they would on tree bark in their natural surroundings. When you do re-pot, you may want to keep these interesting-looking root formations intact when you place the plant in its new container.
  

Watering Orchids

• The proper technique for watering orchids once again attempts to mimic their natural growing conditions. For our epiphytic species, we lower the entire orchid pot into a container of water to completely immerse the roots and growing medium. Once the medium is well soaked, lift the pot out and allow the excess water to run off. This approximates the conditions of a hard, tropical rainfall.
• Orchids thrive well with a lot of humidity around their leaves and flowers. Use a plant mister to mist the orchid periodically. Avoid misting orchids late in the day. Leaving the plants moist overnight can allow fungus to begin growing and rot to occur. For best results, mist orchids between 8 am and 1 pm so that they have a chance to dry before nightfall.

Orchid Fertilizer

• To stay looking their best, potted orchids generally require two kinds of fertilizer: a high-nitrogen type and a high-phosphorous type. The high-phosphorous fertilizer gives the plant the energy it needs to grow new blooms and flowers. With some experience at growing orchids, you’ll learn the best ways to alternate these two types of plant-food to achieve the best results.

Orchid Plant Blooming Information

Orchid Plant Family Diseases Information Overview

Diseases are more than a nuisance on orchid plants, if left untreated they can kill them and/or spread to other healthy orchids. Treatment as soon as noticed is the best course of action.

The following is a summary of products that work on orchid diseases that other plant growers have used on their orchids with success. Indoor growers should treat their plants outdoors then bring back indoors after a few hours of airing out or wait until the next day if it’s practical (not recommended in winter). Everyone should buy liquids in smaller quantities to avoid degradation after opening, use liquid fungicides and anti-bacterials within 6 months after opening or buy a new batch.

Commone Signs of Orchid Diseases

• Spotting on the Flower - A sign of fungal infection or mold is pink or light brown spots on the orchid flower. When you see either, be sure to check other plants as the infection can spread to other orchids if you are not careful. It is best to remove the orchid flowers that are affected. The remedy is usually to get more air circulation.
• Flowers with Punctures - Most likely not an orchid disease. Aphids and other orchid feeding insects can get damage your plants too. To get rid of insects on orchids just spray the plant with malathion, but be careful and use a face mask when applying it.
• Discolored or Bruised Leaves - The cause could be a color losing virus, but get a second opinion. Even if this is suspected then isolate the plant. If it is a virus then you need to destroy the plant. The causes of bruising are many. It could simply be from mechanical injury. If this is the case the area of damage will not increase or go on to other flowers. Slugs or even cockroaches are also a possibility of the cause. You may need to investigate and use some dust to bait them. If damage occurs from cockroaches then diazinon or Sevin on the ground and around the plant including the pot and base should keep them away. Bruising may also be from red aphid attacks. If so use a malathion treatment to get rid of the insects.
• Wilting of the Flower - If you notic wilting of the orchid flower, especially the dorsal or upper septal this can be caused by a sudden temperature change or pollination from an “unknown” pollinator. The remedies are those that make sense, moderate the temperature changes and remove any affected plants. If it happens to be an unknown attacker it will be harder to determine a remedy.
• Deformed Flowers - Common causes of deformed orchid flowers include low humidity or high temperatures when the buds were developing, mechanical or chemical injury during bud formation, the bud has acquired an unexplained deformity and potential infection by a virus.

Treatment of Orchid Diseases and Infections

• Insecticides - Never spray with the same insecticide twice in a row, alternate two or more to prevent the cause from developing a resistance to one. Insects, especially mealybugs, are some of the toughest to control. Drench at 7-10 day intervals with alternating insecticides 3 three times.

Insecticides for use on Orchid Plants

• Enstar & Precor - these are growth regulators that prevent insects from reaching maturity, breaking the life cycle. May be used with other insecticides, improving the chances of control.
• Diazinon - available in many concentrations, use at the rate recommended for roses, a contact spray, no systemic action. About $10 per quart. Also available as a microencapsulated form called Knox Out.
• Dursban - same as Diazinon, microencapsulated form is called Duraguard $10-16/qt-$40/qt.
• Orthene WP - a systemic in powder form, kinda stinky but effective, 2 tsp/gal.
• Liquid Sevin - same as Diazinon, keep off of exposed roots.
• Talstar - a wettable powder with systemic action, 1 tsp/gal. $65/lb.
• Gnatrol - a biological treatment for white fly and fungus gnats larvae, effective on grubs in mix only, drench mix to get to larvae, there is a residual action. Spray foliage with a contact spray or aerosol bomb to kill adults for full control. Gnatrol has a residual action against the larvae.
• Aerosol bombs - total release bombs for greenhouses only. Many aerosol bombs are available for greenhouse use. They treat up to 3000 sq feet per bomb. All internal fans should be running while in use to disperse the chemical and dry off the leaves. Good ones are Attain, X-Clude, Knox Out, Orthene, Preclude(growth regulator) and others.
• Attain - many insects and mites, see aerosol bombs.

• Fungicides - Never spray with the same fungicide twice in a row, alternate two or more to prevent the cause from developing a resistance to one.

Fungicides for use on Orchid Plants

• Cleary’s - available as a WP or liquid, a good broad spectrum systemic fungicide. About $40 -50 per quart/ bag.
• Captan or Sulfur - two old favorites, no systemic action. We use it to wipe directly on leaf and rhizome cuts when removing diseased tissue or dividing plants. Available in 8 oz containers for $6-8 or 5 lb bags for $17-20.
• Physan/Green Shield - any ammonia derivative that is good for removing algae, moss and has a fungal and antibacterial action. Use no more than once per month. Use at ½ TBS/gal for spraying plants, 1 TBS/gal for walls, benches and floors.
• Subdue/Resimyl - for root problems, may be used in conjunction with Cleary’s for total treatment of fungal problems. Subdue has been priced out of sight by changing it to a 1 drop/gal strength. Resimyl is the same chemical and is about $55/qt. Use 4-7 drops / gal.
• Strike/Bayleton - a powerful systemic that is to be used only as a last resort. Useful in controlling microfungus or unknown problems that seem unaffected by other fungicides.
• Terrachlor 75%WP - a good general fungicide for root problems during repotting or transplanting and drenching newly unflasked plants when planting into compots.
• Daconil - broad spectrum fungicide, no systemic action.
• Dithane M45 WP - a good broad spectrum fungicide, one of the only ones that will stop many rots in monopodals(Vandaceous) plants.
• Truban - another root rot type fungicide, use as a drench.
• Benlate/Benamyl - a systemic fungicide used on orchids for years, mixed 50/50 with Truban its called Banrot. In the late 1980’s the factory making Benlate DF did not adequately clean out its material handling system and some of the prior material being made at the plant was introduced into the batch of Benlate DF. Unfortunately the contaminant was a potent weed killer. Orchids and other plants died, lawsuits were filed and Benlate/Benamyl are no longer recommended for use on orchids. Use your own judgment.

• Anti-bacterials - Bacteria in orchids is probably the shortest route to death possible. An untreated plant can be dead in 2 days and the spores infecting others. A real problem in softer tissued plants. Cut out any dead or infected tissue and wipe with Kocide or Agri-Strep powder, blow or wipe off any extreme excess. Q-Tips or fingers are good for this. Prevention is the best cure.

Anti-bacterials for use on Orchid Plants

• Kocide - a copper compound that has an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial action, used mainly by Phal growers as a preventive for bacterial problems. Cheap $12-14 per 5 lb bag. Some people report problems if used on thin leaved orchids such as Miltonias, but I have never seen any problems. Do not used a spreader/sticker as some will interfere with the absorption of the copper, use a few drops of detergent. Keep away from the root zone. Use at ½ TBS per gallon as a foliar spray.
• Agri-Strep(Streptomycin) - a WP form of an anti-bacterial drug that my be used no more than 2x per year. More frequent use may cause a buildup of resistant strain of bacteria. About $8-10 per 2 oz or ½ lb bag.

This may seem like a lot of stuff to have on hand, but you will need to pick and choose sooner or later. Many are only available as multiple lifetime supplies for a bunch of dough. Split up those 5lb bags with friends or find someon who will sell a little that has been repackaged.

Orchid Diseases Information

Orchid Plant Family Insects Information Overview

Orchids are susceptible to a number of insects, bugs and mites, including aphids, mealybugs, scales, twospotted spider mites, and thrips. Aphids, mealybugs, and soft scales use their mouthparts to suck sap from orchid plants. They can curl, yellow, or stunt growth of leaves and can reduce flower production and stem growth. Insects like the ones mentioned above also excrete a clear, sticky liquid called honeydew. Black moldy fungus can grow on honeydew, covering leaves and making them unsightly.

Common Orchid Plant Insects

• Aphids - Such as the melon aphid (Aphisgossypii) are small, pear-shaped, soft-bodied insects with two tubelike projections called tail pipes sticking out from their abdomens. Aphids tend to cluster in groups. They feed on young growth, flower spikes, and developing flower buds. Aphids can cause orchids to become mottled and distorted. They are attracted to the fluid excreted by some orchids when they flower, and they are highly attracted to Cymbidiums.
• Mealybugs - The common mealybug species found attacking orchids are the citrus mealybug (Planococcus citri) and the longtailed mealybug, which are susceptible to Phalaenopsis and Dendrobiums roots. Mealybugs also feed on orchid sheaths and old leaves.
• Scales - Scales can be divided into two groups, soft and hard scales. Hard scales include the Boisduval scale (Diaspis boisduvalii) and Florida red scale, (Chrysom-phalus aonidum). Soft scales include Brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum). One difference between these two groups is that soft scales produce honeydew and hard scales do not. A dome-shaped shell often covers later stages of hard scale. Orchids are attacked by many other different species of scales as well. Scales are small, round insects from about 1 to 5 mm long. They are most often found feeding on the underside of leaves along the midrib and underneath leaf sheaths. Cattleyas are highly susceptible to scales, especially the Boisduval scale. Many orchids are commonly attacked by a variety of different scale species.
• Mites - Twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) feeds on leaf undersides and sucks the chlorophyll out of plant cells. The feeding causes leaves to appear pin-poked, with yellow dots that give a characteristic silvery stippled appearance. Later, leaves turn yellow and sometimes fall off. Twospotted spider mites are greenish yellow, wingless, eight-legged creatures with a dark spot on each side of their body. They thrive when orchid plants are stressed under warm, dry conditions, but they are less of a problem under conditions of high humidity. Twospotted spider mites are found on new growth and on thin-leafed orchids. For early detection, tap leaves over a white sheet of paper and look for crawling twospotted spider mites. Cymbidiums are highly susceptible to mites.
• Thrips - Many thrips species feed on orchids, including western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis), Cuban laurel thrips (Gynaikothrips ficorum), greenhouse thrips (Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis) and flower thrips (Frankliniella bispinosa). Thrips normally feed in flower buds and open orchid flowers. As a result, flowers may be deformed or fail to open. Eventually, flowers turn brown, and petals become streaked or silvery in appearance and discolored. Thrips are about 0.5 to 4.0 mm long and they are difficult to see with the naked eye. A hand lens is helpful in identifying these insects on orchid plants. Thrips feed by using their mouthparts like a straw to suck up orchid juices. For early thrips detection, gently blow into an open flower and watch for thrips crawling inside the blossom.

Orchid Insect Management

To minimize orchid insect problems, implement such cultural management strategies as prevention, sanitation, and plant inspection. Prevention is the best strategy for managing orchid insects. Proper cultural conditions, such as the correct amount of water, temperature, light, fertility, and humidity, minimize potential incest problems. Many reference books and manuals on orchid culture are available. Be sure to know the cultural practices of specific orchid plants being grown.

• Sanitation is another strategy to prevent orchid insect problems. Remove all plant debris and old orchid medium. Also, remove old leaf sheaths to eliminate hiding places for mealybugs and scales. Inspect orchids on a regular basis by looking underneath leaves to detect the presence of aphids and spider mites. If pests are present, use a hard stream of water to dislodge insects and mites.
• Insecticides and miticides are another option when dealing with orchid insects, especially when populations are high. Insecticides such as insecticidal soap, malathion, acephate (Orthene), diazinon (Knox Out), chlorpyrifos (Dursban), and bendiocarb (Turcam/Dycarb) control aphids, mealybugs, scales, and thrips. Thrips are also controlled with spinosad (Conserve) and methiocarb (Mesurol). Twospotted spider mite is controlled with the miticides dicofol (Kelthane), hexakis (Orthonex III), and abamectin (Avid). Be sure to read the label carefully and wear protective clothing. Apply insecticides to control mealybugs and scales when crawlers are present, as this is the most susceptible stage. Be aware that some insecticides and miticides cannot be used on orchids. Many materials have not been tested on orchids, so try any material on a small group of orchids, especially when they are in flower, before exposing the entire crop to an application.
• Biological control can also be used to deal with bug and mite insects. Biological control involves the use of an insect’s natural enemies, such as parasitoids, predators, and entomopathogenic fungi. Be sure to control ants, which are attracted to the fluid extracted by orchids, because ants protect aphids, soft scales, and mealybugs from attack by natural enemies. Consult biological control supplier catalogs for natural enemies available for each insect, bug or mite.

Orchid Plant Insects Information

Two of the hard-caned Dendrobium species - D. superbbiens and D. canaliculatum from Australia - make up this worthwhile 1986 hybrid with its striking combination of white, red-lipped flowers. It is a tall-growing plant, leafed along the upper parts of its club-shaped pseudobulbs. The flower spikes arise from the top portion of the newly completed canes in later summer. The plant needs specialist care to address its fast, summer growing season, which is followed by a long resting period. All-year-round light is essential, with full sun in the winter. Warm conditions suit it best!

Flower Size: 2 3/4 inches (7cm) across

Flower Spike: 10 inches (25cm)

Plant Height: 1 foot (30cm)

Pot Size: 4 inches (10cm) long

An attractive hybrid which burst onto the tropical cut-flower scene in 1982, this plant found favor both for floral decoration and the pot-plant trade. The combination of pink and white gives its blooms a fairy-tale appearance, with the added elegance of the East. The six to eight flowers that are born in the fall on each spike will last for around four weeks. This plant and numerous others have all been derived from a very few species, the most dominant of which is D. phalaenopsis from Australia. It was first discovered on one of Captain Cook’s expeditions and became known as the Cooktown orchid. Good all-year-round light is important for successful flowering and production of the season’s growth, which is completed in a comparatively short time. The plant also needs a dry rest during the shortest days.

Flower Size: 2 3/4 inches (7cm) across

Flower Spike: 10 inches (25cm)

Plant Height: 1 foot (30cm)

Pot Size: 4 inches (10cm) long